Hey Internet!
An explanation is in order for my severe lack of posting. After the devastating triple whami earthquake/tsunami/nuclear disaster (which is still is going on, so if you haven't please give to the Red Cross) hit my beloved Japan; I have struggled to understand what an earth I am doing on this planet. With unrest in the Middle East and North Africa as well, fashion has seemed even more ridiculous and facetious then usual. So with all of this, I decided that I need to be in a place where I can really be challenged in a thoughtful way. I believe that design should be a contemplative response to the outside world and right now I just want to curl up in a ball. But with trying to catch up with the work I missed during those dark weeks where I couldn't deal with FIT and trying to figure out my next educational move, my blog has been really neglected. Ironically the thing I have most wanted to do was write, as it always has helped centering me in the past. Paradoxically, writing only makes me feel more stressed and guilty for spending time on this very personal project. Just as I found myself writing the first part of this series, I am on a train again. This time to visit my beloved Autumn and fellow Issey-freak who now lives in upstate New York. So with that (now long explanation) out of the way, let us continue the discussion.
Firstly let me express my gratitude that my first post had such a good response especially to Joy who wrote a lovely post on her blog (which you should all check out here). Although I must say some of the comments should be posts unto themselves (ahem Raj :) ). It's really wonderful what blogging can be and how it can bring about discussion and creative thinking.
Today I wanted to talk about why I continue to buy, how I do it and my buying philosophy. If I had a vice, fashion would it be, no scratch that reading blogs would be it... When I first started earning my own money I bought plenty of unnecessary clothing that I have since donated or given to Beacons. It was also a growth period for me as to how I wanted to present myself. I have since (I believe) grown up and learned . Is it even possible to buy without ever making mistakes? I don't think so, but it is possible to train oneself to be a better buyer. Yes we all get sick of hearing and reading magazines/blog telling us to all buy less but better (whilst hammering products down our throats!). It is a philosophy, however, that I agree with. This year in particular I have really slowed down on my buying. I find myself constantly withholding my urge to buy (and it is an urge isn't it?) and instead: waiting out until I hear a certain sale is happening and that is when I put the money I've saved by not spending frivolously and lay down some coin. I am not really in a money bracket that can afford to pay retail prices, and I thank my lucky stars every time I have access to a sample sale or one of my favourite thrift/vintage stores.
But why do I specifically, buy? Maybe it's the collector inside of me and maybe I sound like an idiot, but I really do believe that items of clothing are like paintbrushes, each new piece providing me with a new tool to express myself. Expressing what exactly? I don't know... Freedom perhaps? But if it takes a material item for me to express a thought, maybe there is something inherently wrong with that... When I think about it I find good design doesn't just cheer me up when I'm down, it entertains me and lifts my spirits. I don't find joy in the act of buying but there is in wearing. Retail therapy is a load of marketing bullshit. The act of buying should be good. BUT that is nothing more then a memory and the item you buy, should be lasting. I don't dress for anyone but myself. The things I wear, I wear because they remind me that someone is sitting somewhere designing/making things with terrific ideas and when I feel trapped my clothing can free me and take me away. In this respect, buying less but better, means you will have a closet full of substance rather then piles of "cute" jeans. As I said in the previous article, we ARE responsible for the world we live in and we need to grow the fuck up, see through all this glossy marketing and realize our quality of life doesn't depend on quick spending. I am not saying we all should stop buying, but we do need to start practicing a form of conscious consumerism. This is just as much for the consumer as the producer who ends up with huge amounts of merchandise being unsold and ending up in the bone-yards of Gilt, Century 21 etc... This in turn devalues both the product and the brand. At this point, the average consumer can't be blamed for thinking that buying a brand new shirt for $20 at H&M is ethical.
I like the idea that Steve has highlighted in his series of collections posts. It highlights people who really think how an item is going to sit, within their respective closets. Steve's collection of shoes and how he decided to "refine, edit, purchase and lay the foundations of a shoe collection fit for my tastes of today, and hopefully tomorrow" is incredibly admirable. I type this and look around at the literal piles of footwear I have accumulated over the years (shoedrobe clean out day is scheduled). Whilst I have continually edited my closet, the shoes have never been subjected to this. The dud shoes almost entirely purchased without much thought while the shoes I rely on were never purchased on a whim. Says something doesn't it?
A quick last note. We as consumers are a powerful bunch and we need to vote with our dollars. Support the companies and individuals that you connect with aesthetically and politically. I don't consider it more work to do this; Rather, by putting more effort into buying better, you end up with a more rewarding product and a happier wardrobe. Check out Raj's post on the IOU project and watch the video below to get an idea about it. Looking forward to seeing more from this initiative...
Excuse me while I get off my high, high horse, it's a long way down...
thoughts?


11 comments:
thanks so much for posting about this!! truly!! the economic and environmental sustainability of fashion is one of my primary interests and its great to see another blogger talking about it. how CAN we be better buyers while respecting the earth and ensuring the people that made our clothes are treated humanely? there's no easy answers but ultimately, it's important to never lose sight of the people we share our planet with. i firmly believe that.
I got an email about the IOU project and I thought about you and what you've been saying. The pieces are quite good--planning on posting the lookbook soon. I've also been cutting down on the shopping a lot lately too, and you know I'm a shopaholic. Not only have I realized that I don't need anymore, I also am uninterested in consuming more junk. It has to be something I've really wanted for a very long time, and not just because it's priced at a super discount (which is the reason behind so many bad purchases).
That said, I can't wait for this Friday.....
xx
Tiffany
Meagan - I'm glad you enjoyed the post so much :). It is really difficult to put onto paper this complicated subject. A can of worms that I feel very few bloggers actually address but I figured I should give it a go.
Tiffany - WOW you've been cutting down on shopping! That is amazing! (hope that didn't sound too bad)... I know what you mean about super discount awful shopping and afterward you feel like you just at mcdonalds and because it was at a sample sale you cannot return it... I'm going to go on my lunch break from 3-4ish on friday or maybe even a little earlier like 2/230ish! I cannot wait! That being said 70% off isn't much and I really should not be spending :/. And that being said Comme des Garcons NEVER have any kind of sample sale sooooo.... Not to mention it is Comme and Rei is one of the few designers I wish I could support more (despite exorbitant prices...). Lets see how it is!
Bravo! I'm so glad you made your return with such a thoughtful piece. I wish everyone approached buying in this manner--think the world would be much more beautiful inside and out. Buying for the sake of buying is totally wasteful and cluttering to the soul. Buy yourself treasures or at least try to. True, you can't be perfect, but just to think about it makes such a difference. On a more narcissistic note, I totally have been in this mass editing mode in 2011 as well. Not sure if it is by choice or necessity, but 2011 seems to be the year of purgation.
Great article again. Yes, we aren't all Saints but I think at least we started to think about our consumerism. Especially if you are a fashion fanatic, it is so easy, as you said,to get mixed up and to feel more excitement in the ' act of buying' than in the 'act of wearing'. I think the way you describe your way of buying as more a way of collecting a fashion wardrobe already shows that you buy differently. I love the comparison with the paint brushes, it is a very poetic comparison and you are absolutely right! Are you sure that good design does not cheer you up? If it ' entertains and lifts your spirit', than it does cheer you up, doesnt' it? In my case, it does and I think that is brilliant! Also I think, you do express yourself and your spiritual freedom through the way you dress. And especially you, Brandon, show a huge liberation of mind through the way you dress and what you buy, which I hardly find in other people. It is nothing wrong to express freedom through clothes ( material things) in my opinion. In our case the clothes are just a tool to express the freedom of mind and liberalism. As you said, as long as you do not mix it up and try to find the kick in just the act of buying instead of what you buy, than, in my opinion i think it is ok. Maybe the next step is to go back and start sewing our own clothes more often and discover the joy of really making things with our hands again and find through the act creating and making our individuality and freedom again, instead of buying just loads of items ( clothes in our case) mass produced by a faceless production an marketing machine based in China ( nothing against China)? I am just thinking of starting a knitting class? I have seen hand knitted jumpers selling in designer shops for £ 500. I thought, wow, I can't afford this but than I thought, well knit it yourself! Just imagine the satisfaction you get when finishing one of your accessoires at college? By the way, is it just me or I just realized you hardly wear your own designs? But maybe I am wrong? Love, Raj- The Fashion Philosopher
Preetma - Maybe because next year is 2012.... Not that I believe that shit just joking around. Yes let us make 2011 be the year of mass purgation for the nation! I swear if I don't learn how to sell on ebay this year I might as well give up and move to Wisconsin.
Raj - Glad you enjoyed it :)! I actually said "good design doesn't just cheer me up when I'm down, it entertains me and lifts my spirits" in regards to my feelings on interesting design.
Your comment on being "liberated" in the way I dress and buy is huugely flattering and I'm really humbled that you think that. I think the next step along this road for me is to learn to cherish the material possessions I have but if it all burned down in a fire to realize that whilst it physically is not there, the ideas behind it can never die. Yes I'd be devastated and (touch wood) hope nothing like this ever happens to me but I feel sometimes I rely too much on these thing.
Take the knitting class! I think that is a terrific idea! The loss of physical human skills scares the shit out of me! I may be able to do a lot in photoshop but I'm a mess when it comes to real physical skills! Later this summer I'm trading my photoshop skills with a friends pattern making and hand sewing skills. Bartering is soooo cool!
In terms of my own designs, I haven't really physically made any (see last paragraph) therefore I can't really use them haha...
Hi Brandon,
Hope you are fine and enjoying life? Check out this Belgium designer Jan- Jan Van Essche. I personnally love his designs- they might not be your stuff but he has some very progressive ideas about his design philosphy. For example he does just one collection per year...
http://www.janjanvanessche.com/home2/
Love and happiness to you from London
Raj The Fashion Philospher
Hey man really enjoying your blog!
Great Blog, happy I've found it. I've found here in the UK I'm getting more environmentally conscious people popping in to source Vintage rag on a consistent basis, more than ever before. Keep up the good work!
i don't think it's that much of a high horse, i think you actually sound very educated in the subject without sounding pretentious. it could have gone the other way but i think you're really writing from the heart on this one. i am totally with you 100% on this subject and anyone that knows me will tell you the same, i have seen a huge change in my buying habits over the past two years. so right about the buying on a whim, most of it ends up on my ebay or charity shops, now i am so much more considered. it all started when i started to dress less to do with trends and more to do with what i feel totally myself, comfortable and considering what actually suits me and works with the rest of my wardrobe. this led me to buy less and look at the fabrics, cuts, colours and again, what works well with the rest of it. this actually makes the retail experience much more enjoyable as i can take my time, chat to people and mull things over. there really is no rush, and when it's money you've earned you really should want to make it go as far as possible. i'm starting to ramble but this was a really thought provoking post and even though are styles are very different (of course i flipping love your stuff but that's the beauty, we all have a different take)i think we have very similar values.
thanks for the comment, sounds very intriguing what you're saying about the wallet. i haven't actually bought it yet as i'm going to wait till i've sold some stuff on ebay first. i'm just too sensible!
Raj - Thanks for the link! I really love the design philosophy of just producing one collection a year! Unfortunately the regular comercial realities of fashion mean that you end up only selling once a year instead of twice a year which means only getting paid once a year. so it's tricky.
There is this great magazine called Bloom magazine which is super pricey but I love their philosophy. They only put out a new one when they are good and ready. Brill!
LoveLouis - Thanks :)
Dandy Man - Thanks means a lot I'll have to come check out the store next time I'm in London!
Mat - Your comment means a hugggge amount to me! I'm so glad you read the post and said the things you said. The way you describe your current retail strategy you sound like an ideal customer.
It just goes to show we can look totally different but in the end people can still feel and think the same way about things. And I believe it comes out in the way we dress anyway and the way we live our lives.
I totally managed to finally put 2 items up on ebay too as your twitter account will tell you when you next check lol. Let me know if there are any tips you have to ebay better!
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