Tuesday, 15 January 2008

Milan Fashion Week – Fendi

I am not going to start off a post about one of Karl Lagerfeld’s innumerable fashion houses with a round off of how great he is; every single fashion person praises him and yes he is one of the greatest designers of the 20th and 21st centuries (see I just did it on accident), but the same comments do not need to be heard season upon season, it’s become a joke! So lets get stuck into the show. Fendi was always Lagerfeld’s more grown up brand (despite being creative director of perhaps the oldest fashion institute of our time (yes the one with the double C’s)) a fashion house for more mature, intelligent and freethinking women. This season Lagerfeld showed us clean lined, and modern, 1950’s silhouettes (Donna Karen’s shirtwaist meets the future kind of thing), with a nod to Art Deco in the form of belts and bags and even a touch of Van Gogh. Yes it is the ten-year anniversary of the legendary Fendi baguette, which has been brought back this season in the form of a giant over-sized clutch. A statement to just how much a heavy hitter this brand is, Karl showed the world his power by staging the show, a second time, in the largest man-made structure to be seen from space, The Great Wall of China. Lagerfeld described the show as “space age romanticism” and we think you’ll agree, it’s pretty spacey. But enough of this Zucca print worship was the show any good?

Well yes it was (otherwise we wouldn’t be writing about it). This being a spring collection it was only natural to go for a light colour palette and white was the colour of choice for Lagerfeld. Starting off with this shirtwaist dress (yes as we’ve said before, go off and get one), which has been brought back from the 50’s in a stylishly futuristic white sheer fabric version cinched in with a belt that seems Art Deco, Aztec, and futuristic all at the same time (remember Fendi knows it’s accessories). A perfect look for going away in (although probably not so good on the plane).

As the show evolved, so did the shirtwaist, into this look, a kind of cross between a pant-suit, a shirtwaister and even the collar had a nod to Japanese origami (the previous season’s Dior couture show continues to have effect).

There was an array of long white summery dresses, which flowed down the runway like boat sails. The dress below having a very modern feel, partly thanks to the cut of those sleeves.

Also in the collection were the most fantastic graphic Deco prints, updated for a modern world through sheer fabrics,

Or a clever use of black and white.

Whilst on the runway this look appeared more like a dress, we think that it would be equally useful as a kind of raincoat over anyone of your new collection of full dresses and voluminous skirts.

This dress may not be altogether wearable or even successful but it certainly has an interesting quality thanks to that the veiled layering.

Circular patterns were a big hit on the Fendi runway and these looks would be amazing even for a stroll through Central Park (we do seem to cater for you ladies who lunch now don’t we?)

There was just such an atmosphere of fresh easiness at the show, akin to a summer salad (or some other poetically fresh statement)

Now if you can’t see the link between the next look and Van Gogh’s brushstrokes you must be blind, it was definitely part of that mini “hand of the artist trend” we’ve seen at certain shows throughout the season.

Whilst even this LBD looked fresh and updated with the use of synthetic materials and graphic white, hand-painted circular motifs.

So Fendi was definitely a success this season and for the intellectual woman with a need for some quality dresses that are as crisp and cool as those ice cubes in the vodka on the rocks you may be drinking, Fendi is definitely a shop you’ll be visiting soon. Don’t forget that a lot of these looks are quite versatile and will be equally lovely during the evening as well as daytime, and some of those early white dresses will be worn for many seasons to come.


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