New York Fashion Week – Space Age Modernity (which one can wear!)

When one thinks of modernism, futurism, etc. What does one think of first? Balenciaga’s robot trousers? Hussein Chalayan and his wonderful moving clothes? Well how about Narciso Rodriguez or even Proenza Schouler? Yes? No? Maybe? Whilst Hussein and Nicholas’s vision of modernism (or is it futurism?) is highly stylised and obvious, Proenza’s vision for next season was an almost dystopian future whilst Narciso’s was clearly more minimalist. Of all these collections which would be the most likely to become reality anytime soon? Of course, both American design houses have created much more wearable attire than their European counterparts (as we've been going on about the whole sportswear versus the more couture ready to wear of Europe, arguement).

Over the past few years, various New York designers have been given new leases of life thanks to fresh investment and both Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez have benefited recently. What a difference this money has made can be seen in the new details that Narciso has been able to include in his collection this season. Still there, in each look, was the signature tailoring that the designer is known for; yet the fresh details adds an entirely new level to the collection. Below are two looks that are fairly similar. The red frock is reminiscent of Narciso pre-investment whilst the white dress with the purple, almost translucent detailing, is much more post-investment. They are both undeniably Narciso Rodriguez, through their similar architecturally constructed designs, yet that extra bit of detail just gives the dress a little more emotion and fun.

The colour palette was utterly modern for this collection, contrasting purples and oranges with black and white. The colour of this look is perfect for a piece that can be both fresh during the day and turn into something more eveningwear as the sun sets.

The added details throughout the collection gave the clothes a playful and younger attitude, without the black flowers this dress would be just an orange dress with Narciso construction. The added details just make it seem more playful, we love how it reminds us of those great graphic design patterns with repeating organic shapes. Yet even with these small details the look is still minimalist and contemporary.

As I have said in the past, Spring Summer 2008 is all about veiling and Narciso included a bit in this collection. The veiling with drop details looks like a window on a rainy spring day, in keeping with the architectural sub-theme of the collection.

Yet perhaps the detail that stood out the most was the way in which the designer created gradients and intermingled colours. Rather then the colour blocking of old, colours mix and mingle to create a ‘painted on’ effect. Utterly chic and modern, these dresses transcend the fickle trend system and will look good whether it is spring 2008 or summer 2010.

Moving on to Proenza Schouler, they saw an entirely different kind of investment from Valentino Corp. Yet their vision remains unchanged, they’ll do what they want and because what they do is already intellectual and cool, nobody cares!

A masculine versus feminine interaction permeated the collection with neither being overtly present. Perhaps the one constant throughout was the cinched in waist with a belt creating a very deliberate silhouette. Tribal patterns created that sense of dystopian society.

Here the off-the-shoulder dress using leather helps to emphasise a kind of primitive and again tribal society.

The Materials played a big role in continuing the theme of primitivism. The models of the show came out on force like a tribe of savage women killing animals and wearing their skins. Only these are not animal skins they are in fact artificial fabrics (what fabrics? Don’t ask), creating this play between the natural and the synthetic.

If Valentino’s influence could be seen in one look this gold number would be it, with its typical Valentinoesque silhouette with Proenza’s innovative use of materials.

If you want to be one step in front of the crowd yet don’t want to look like one of Nicholas Ghesquire’s robots, come to Proenza, or for a more classical approach how about Narciso. We hope that we have wet your appetites we’ll be away for awhile as our system goes in for maintenance. However when we return, as this is the last post on New York Spring Summer 2008, we’ll be visiting the catwalks of London, Paris and Milan.