Chanel Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007

Despite its status at the top of the fashion hierarchy, Chanel still manages to astound and adapt in an ever-changing world. The Winter Couture collection was all about what Lagerfeld described as “high profile”, what this meant was focusing on the areas where the seams should be, and embellishing them. This ‘high profile’ that Lagerfeld created was totally flat at the front and as Karl mentioned “its all side effects.” The finished pieces seemed to create incredibly elongated silhouettes on already tall models. This elongation can be attributed solely to this ‘high profile’ line, a bit like a Paul Newman ‘zip’ motif where a viewers eye will zip up and down the vertical lines the same can be said for these pieces of couture.

There was also a strange mixture of almost medieval embellishment whilst still being incredibly futuristic in the accessories like the sunglasses below.

The medieval theme can be seen in the traditional Chanel suit below which looks like it is made from chain mail whilst again looking very futuristic thanks to the metallic finish. The piece still keeps within the high profile theme of the collection due to the more emphasized zips on the side.

On the other hand the high profile theme was not successful in creating shapely pieces as Lagerfeld admits “the front is flat” and the dress below has lost any sex appeal it might have had with a bit of fitting. However it still has the same elongated look as other high profile pieces.

The look below shows the preppy side of the collection. Blazers a big story for this Autumn Winter and for the ladies who lunch Chanel has a more refined piece then say Balenciaga.

Of course there were still the more commercial couture pieces (if there is such a thing) like this classic Chanel jacket.

And what Chanel collection is complete without an array of LBD’s? This time they were done in high profile with different types of embellishment marking out the ankle to shoulder lines. From bows…

To feathers…

Whilst this stunning jersey LBD, with it’s strap picked out with red and black bows and further red embellishment coming from the sequins at the top is a classic example of Chanel embellishment versus Dior embellishment. Where Chanel is much more subtle, Dior goes for the ‘lets dip the models in glitter’ effect. I wonder which one is the more wearable?

Perhaps one of the most disturbing part of the show were seeing these beautiful pieces of couture getting covered in muddy water due to the constant downpour throughout the show. It was a strange nod to how unpractical these pieces actually are and how, in reality anyone who had paid this tens of thousands of dollars for a piece of couture would strive to keep them as clean as possible. The piece below continues the subtle medieval theme of the collection.

But perhaps the most obvious theme was that of the 1930’s and the flappers. The strange hoods were one indication of this theme but the dress below has come straight from the archives of Chanel with the same shape as a 1930’s flapper dress. Perhaps this was an acknowledgment to a time where Haute Couture was flourishing and there were many more couturiers in Paris, as opposed to the handful there currently are.

This dress continued with the high profile trends of before whilst Lagerfeld also inserted a sense of sportswear with the straps. This was also an example of the ‘high profile’ theme actually creating shape to a dress as the black ruffles to the sides actually emphasise the woman’s shape whilst still creating the elongated silhouette that the rest of the collection has seen.

From start to finish we saw how Karl Lagerfeld evolved the “high profile” look from a flat sexless yet elongated shape to a much more refined dress as seen in the look above. The collection can be praised for Lagerfeld’s continued sense of innovation and change, this high profile look will undoubtedly continue to evolve as seasons continue. What Lagerfeld is doing is imprinting his own profile into the Chanel signature look and rather then just using Chanel’s signature profile, lines and colours in different trends, Lagerfeld is in fact creating a new signature for Chanel and it will be very interesting to see how he continues to evolve it next season.

Next time, Feigned Perfection will be looking at the best of New York Fashion week.