Ports 1961 Autumn/Winter 2007

‘Jet Set’ is a term tossed around by designers and critics all the time. Yes most people living what could be called a jet set lifestyle wear designer clothes and yes Gucci, Chanel, Oscar De La Renta, etc are typical brands that these people wear. However the design houses themselves often take the idea and inspiration from the jet set life a little too literally.

Whether it is the coral prints of the latest Gucci resort collection (which actually works)

Or the travesty of the Givenchy Maori collection where Maori patterns cover everything.

The much smaller house of Ports 1961 describes itself as a jet set brand and it’s latest collection, inspired by the cold landscape of Iceland, actually successfully and more importantly cleverly manages to incorporate the soul of an international population. Feigned Perfection’s idea of the jet set is a population who travel regularly for pleasure but are not constrained by national boundaries. These people are not just rich American’s in San Tropez but include all nationalities mixing to become the international jet set.

Ports’ collection takes inspiration from around the world but not in the Givenchy literal way, but in a way, which still say’s global whilst being totally wearable and subtle. A key trend this winter will be over sized separates. The cardigan below certainly is over-sized and evokes the Icelandic winter months where it is too cold to leave the house. If you’re young enough you could also team it with a belt and tights (or socks as picking up on the sock trend) and leave the house.

And if you are jetting off today to some exotic destination Ports has the perfect plane-wear for you. Comfortable, minimalist and chic, this grey and silver ensemble would be perfect to wear together or as separates. The colour combinations illicit crisp wintry mornings across Scandinavia whilst the wooden accessories are typical of the modern pine furniture found all over the Scandic countries.

The dress below made of leather and silk ticks of the trend box of multiple textures whilst still looking almost Viking with the rustic leather.

The most memorable thing about the collection was the large wooden clutches. Now, normally when one thinks of a wooden accessory one thinks of arts and crafts, yet Ports designer Tia Cibani has made these look like organic pebbles of wood as if they’ve been down a river and naturally worn away to have this shape. One of the reasons why wood is used so much in Scandinavian design is that it’s a warm material. As innovative as these pieces are, Feigned Perfection realises that they probably are not the most practical of purses but its fashion, who cares?

As said earlier Ports 1961 always makes great separates that can be paired with many other things this jacket/top would work with many other dresses or simply worn by itself. The beige colour looks warm and is certainly a new take on old autumn/winter colours of the past few seasons (notably brown, black and green). Whilst the collection has a lot of dark colours there was always an airy quality to it whether it is in the colours (as seen below).

Or the materials; the velvet used in this coat works spectacularly and lightens up the darkest of colours.

The silver dress below not only reminds Feigned Perfection of a cold grey landscape, but also the voluptuous sleeves look almost like part of an aircraft, or even the exo-skeleton of a building (architecture is stated to be another of the inspirations of the collection)

Chanel has it’s little black dress (LBD) but ports has it’s own take; here the see-thru sleeves give the dress a floating ethereal quality.

This dress provided a shock of colour to otherwise subdued collection and is a perfect example of how well black and yellow go together. Relating back to the Icelandic theme in the collection, this was a lantern amongst the snow, and dark nights of the other colours.

Perhaps the best piece of the collection was this silk coat, which is feminine, light, and versatile enough to go with most other garments and is smart/casual enough to wear to work or even on a cold night out.

Of course the most striking thing about this collection, and any other Ports 1961 show, is that almost everything is totally wearable right off the catwalk which make these pieces great investment clothes. Despite their inherent wear-ability the clothes all speak of the original Icelandic theme without being over-literal.

Next week Feigned Perfection will be writing on the Haute Couture collections from the houses of Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Christian Lacroix.