A note to my readers

Viewers, readers and fash people, after receiving emails about my rather long pause of posting I have endeavoured to explain one thing about me. I am one person with a career and many interests offline, so when my first life is very busy, my blog can go rather quiet. I do this in my spare time for fun as a way to express my love of fashion, design and art. While I do this for fun, I do strive to do it well - feedback on ways to improve is always welcome and as such i appreciate your concerns and no Alicia I haven't died I am perfectly OK (if a little stressed from work).

My dilemma dear readers is this; I could easily post shorter posts with much less thought and effort put into it and post more frequently, or I could continue to write my rather long essays (at least in terms of a fashion show) on each show. I am not totally sure that you realise how long it takes to put together one of my posts and as much as I love to do it, writing a post is very time consuming.

My next posts, whenever they may be posted, will be on the Spring 2008 shows that I most liked and once they are over I shall move onto the not so fresh Autumn Winter shows. Hope you guys understand that sometimes real life needs to be sorted out before the frivolities of blogging may continue.

Lots of Love

iStyle

Milan Fashion Week – Alberta Ferretti

No need to say it, but then there is not harm in doing so, Alberta Ferretti is the queen of romanticism; so naturally in a season full of it, she created one of the most wearable and stand out collections of simply beautiful clothing. She has no gimmicks this is a woman who loves to dress women in feminine, sexy outfits and in this collection she was inspired by the Greeks (if you’ve been paying attention readers, this is one of the sub-trends of the season). Now if you have ever worn, or been up close and personal with any of Ferretti’s garments you will know the stunningly intricate details that go into each and every piece; the lady knows how to embellish. Now I’ve collected as many detailed shots as I could find but unfortunately the one’s I need to illustrate my points are unavailable, so you will either have to believe what I say or head down to your local Ferretti boutique and have a look yourself.

So I guess it would be important in a collection, which I describe as romantic to define what romanticism is in clothes? Firstly it all depends on the individual designer, in Ferretti’s case I could only describe it as classically formed, ethereal clothes with a mix of couture quality embellishment and clever draping. Whenever I look at any collection I always try and link it with architecture and art, it’s weird but they’re things that I love and I love it even more when fashion is inspired by these things. But enough with this useless chitchat, lets get to what we’re all here to see, the looks.

Last week we showed you Gucci’s big skirts and this week its Alberta’s little ones. Here Alberta has created a marbled effect on chiffon making it seem as if Sasha Pivarova is wearing molten marble. It’s quite a simple look but quite affective. Actually it’s quite interesting how Ferretti goes from uptown to downtown chic quite easily appealing to the Cosmo crowd, and as you’ll see later, the lunching ladies.

Ferretti always has been a wonderful red carpet and cocktail dress creator and this chiffon example with vertical pleats, reminiscent of piped classical columns is certainly one for the downtown crowd, and if orange isn’t your colour

There were lilacs like this beautifully embellished example

Or this lovely olive yellow example

Not sexy enough? How about this Botticelliesque dress, the only part that appears solid is that belt, talk about sheer. Don’t forget that detailing which really makes these dresses so special.

This printed dress seems both mannerist in its ornate print, and classical in the subject of the print; Greek architecture

Now I’ve been stating consistently that the goddess silhouette is the silhouette of the season, now if this is a little difficult for you to pull off or it’s just not becoming on you, Ferretti has created a selection of semi-goddess silhouetted dresses like this rather flirty sand coloured frock

That detailing continues underneath, almost like curtains in a Greek temple, or even a mosaic pattern

This red and orange combo uses such a subtle orange that combined with the bright red becomes almost a nude colour

The colour of the collection was green, in shades ranging from mint to ivy and grey/greens. The draping on this mint dress continues the idea that these dresses are subtle piped columns, now you can’t see it but this dress actually has another layer of draping on the fringe at the top to appear to be like the heads of those aforementioned columns.

Here is another example of one of Alberta’s semi-goddess cut dresses, with that shiny skirt isn’t it so downtown chic?

Or one of Lily Donaldson’s dresses where the draping really does speak for itself, and that embellishment is just stunning, almost like a waterfall or even sunrays.

Or this dark cloudy green with just enough embellishment to make it modern

Whilst this mint look harks utterly back to the Greeks, look at those dazzling folds! If there is a way to do high wasted it is this.

With embellishment like this, who needs jewellery?

The collection’s best parts were the draping details, so the dresses without the embellishment really stood out as show-stoppers, whether its for a night out with your friends in this wine dress (need I mention the cascading?)

Or this gorgeous white number with a centralised pleating, also note how in many of the outfits there have been subtle references to that goddess silhouette, through lopsided amounts of fabric such as on Lily’s left side and down her arm

Red Carpet gowns are certainly one of Alberta’s forte’s although if you are going to a red carpet event don’t colour match with that carpet, maybe this would be better for a gala opening (see I told you ladies who lunch, that there were clothes for you)

And how about this number, obviously it would need to be fitted better, but those pleats and the embellishment make it look like treasure being found in the sea (the pleats being the sea and the embellishment, well I’m pretty sure you get the reference)

Well frankly if you can’t find something you like in this collection I implore you to go down to Alberta Ferretti and at least try on a few dresses, if you aren’t satisfied well at least you had fun in a few expensive frocks.

Milan Fashion Week – Gucci

Gucci is one of those famed houses, whether it’s the signature double G monogram, or the whole jet set feel of the brand. Ever since Tom Ford left Gucci (is it even relevant to mention him anymore?) all those seasons ago, Frida Giannini has had her own go at bringing the house in a new direction. No longer is it about “sex on stiletto’s” as one fashion journalist put it, instead Frida’s designs are more feminine and subtly sexy, whilst retaining Gucci’s jet set image. We here at Feigned Perfection enjoy her shows season on season, whether she decides to delve into the archives, or not. This season Gucci hit many of the trends, full 1950’s skirts (even 1950’s cropped leather jackets that could well have come straight out of Grease Lightning (is that a good or a bad thing?)), peep-toed booties, and the goddess off-the shoulder silhouette. The collection wasn’t much appreciated by the fashion press this season and whilst the show might not have been as stellar as it could have been we reckon it had many pieces throughout that were definitely worthy of their inevitably high-price tags.

One of Frida’s strong points throughout all her collections are her use of graphic prints and almost every look contained a print in one form or other. Our favourite looks of the show were the cropped jackets combined with full yet short skirts in multiple colours and materials. From patent black and abstract flowers…

To bright yellow and brought in at the waist with a particularly nice wide belt…

Then there were the bubble gum pinks (a colour I’m not too fond of but combined with the hard edged patent leathers and blacks that old cutesy feeling traditionally felt when seeing anything in this shade of pink disappears)

Actually isn’t this patent pink jacket quite lovely, especially with the contrasting trims and that great skirt that will look great with a whole multitude of items. Worth noting about these jackets is that those arms seem to be ultra thin, maybe when they retail (i.e. now) the arms won’t be so thin.

And then Frida showed us her more masculine side of Gucci, the lady loves fitted shirts; with this check with fitted pencil skirt and high sheen jacket, very biker chick chic.

And then the Frida trousers came out…

Whilst we may not recommend those hot pink versions for everyone, the following black ones are quite becoming and would be equally good for work wear.

Although this top might not be too good for the office it shows the versatility of the look to go from day to evening.

Frida also showed us some very nice day dresses that combined both sculptural and graphic elements as in this strapless number

Or this goddess silhouette with sunflower print (I believe M&S has a much cheaper (and not as well done) version)

The print on this dress reminds us of some of De Kooning’s works, although in practice we feel that the print is a little overwhelming for the rest of the look.

Gucci’s staple eveningwear seemed much heavier then usual but also quite sculptural as in this floor length black dress with suede wide belt.

But our favourite eveningwear gown was Lily Donaldson’s final look. Now we can’t think of too many occasions where this dress would be suitable but it would certainly stand out in quite a subtle way.

If there is one thing you can learn from this collection it’s that if you want to look like you are part of the international jet set, you better head down to Gucci for some staple wardrobe pieces.

Milan Fashion Week – Marni

Marni has been a long-term favourite of ours here at Feigned Perfection. The clothes may not be fashion forward, nor are they fashion backward (is that even a term), these are clothes for clever women, thanks to Consuelo Castiglioni's innovative use of hi-tech fabrics. To quote Tim Blanks who sums up the label in this great sound bite “Hi-Tech, Hi-Touch” the hi-touch referring to the houses exquisite couture like construction. This is modern couture (i.e. none of the OTT details that we love from Dior and Chanel instead it is in the technology of the fabrics) with ready to wear prices. The problem of seeing these clothes on a computer screen or in a magazine is that you really can’t get a feel for them, both in the way that they fit and fall on a real body (honestly the pictures off the catwalks make them look like lifeless sacks, but trust me once you put one on it’s a totally different story).

This season at Marni the hi-tech references continued, whether it was the use of plastics as in this skirt and new wave t-shirt

Or these amazing prints, that remind us of rippling water or even those iTunes visualisations that we all secretly love to watch.

Here we even have a slight sheer effect, except i'm guessing that it's the lucid plasticy material rather then thin cotton. Either way it's our favourite look of the show.

Amongst other prints were these, wood grains

and even a floral (who would have guessed in this season!!??)

There was also a recurring triangular motif in various colours of plastic. We love the splattered paint effect of the print mixed with the more graphic plastics

And if you find the plastic element a stretch too far then what about this almost art deco print T-shirt?

There was more then a hint of new wave with these 80’s colours and shapes

And the full skirts of the 1950’s were also referenced in Marni’s distinctively minimalist / maximalist style. One of the things this house is known for are its great separates which will go with plenty of other non-Marni options in your wardrobes, either toning them up or down.

Whilst Prada may have monopolised the Fairy’s of the forest market, Marni had it’s own take on the trend. This shift takes quite a literal perspective on the traditional floral prints; instead we have petals made of an undoubtedly interesting fabric with one of Consuelo’s favourite techno blues.

Yes for Marni this wasn’t too much a step away from the norm, but one must realise that this house has been on the avant-garde of Fashion for many years and has only recently (in the last few years) become mainstream enough to have their designs copied by the High Street. If Consuelo’s formula is as successful as it has been why change now?

Happy Birthday Shoe Goddess

Our very good friend's over at the Shoe Goddess have just turned One Year Old! Congratulations guys we wish you many Louboutin's and Blahnik's for this special occasion. So here are a box of lovely Pedro Garcia Dannie Satin Pumps in a very nude pink

And now for a long overdue update. I know that this is no excuse for a blogger but I literally have had no time at all to sit down for an hour and a half writing my little runway reviews thanks to my rather tiring work. Now that doesn't mean I am going to stop however it has taught me a valuable lesson: "don't take too big a bite out of the big fashion apple". Yes the New York Fashion shows have already been hitting out screens (and to those lucky enough to go, sunglasses) so I am way behind in terms of being right on the ball with my reviews. However It is still Winter in the Northern Hemisphere and I figure I'll have plenty of time to write the AW2008 reviews over the summer. So I have vowed to complete my reviews of Milan and Paris but next season I shall focus on the shows that I absolutely loved the most first rather then writing over each fashion week. So I hope you readers aren't too mad at me and I feel pretty bad (not to mention un-professional) writing this sorry statement.

Milan Fashion Week – Fendi

I am not going to start off a post about one of Karl Lagerfeld’s innumerable fashion houses with a round off of how great he is; every single fashion person praises him and yes he is one of the greatest designers of the 20^th and 21^st centuries (see I just did it on accident), but the same comments do not need to be heard season upon season, it’s become a joke! So lets get stuck into the show. Fendi was always Lagerfeld’s more grown up brand (despite being creative director of perhaps the oldest fashion institute of our time (yes the one with the double C’s)) a fashion house for more mature, intelligent and freethinking women. This season Lagerfeld showed us clean lined, and modern, 1950’s silhouettes (Donna Karen’s shirtwaist meets the future kind of thing), with a nod to Art Deco in the form of belts and bags and even a touch of Van Gogh. Yes it is the ten-year anniversary of the legendary Fendi baguette, which has been brought back this season in the form of a giant over-sized clutch. A statement to just how much a heavy hitter this brand is, Karl showed the world his power by staging the show, a second time, in the largest man-made structure to be seen from space, The Great Wall of China. Lagerfeld described the show as “space age romanticism” and we think you’ll agree, it’s pretty spacey. But enough of this Zucca print worship was the show any good?

Well yes it was (otherwise we wouldn’t be writing about it). This being a spring collection it was only natural to go for a light colour palette and white was the colour of choice for Lagerfeld. Starting off with this shirtwaist dress (yes as we’ve said before, go off and get one), which has been brought back from the 50’s in a stylishly futuristic white sheer fabric version cinched in with a belt that seems Art Deco, Aztec, and futuristic all at the same time (remember Fendi knows it’s accessories). A perfect look for going away in (although probably not so good on the plane).

As the show evolved, so did the shirtwaist, into this look, a kind of cross between a pant-suit, a shirtwaister and even the collar had a nod to Japanese origami (the previous season’s Dior couture show continues to have effect).

There was an array of long white summery dresses, which flowed down the runway like boat sails. The dress below having a very modern feel, partly thanks to the cut of those sleeves.

Also in the collection were the most fantastic graphic Deco prints, updated for a modern world through sheer fabrics,

Or a clever use of black and white.

Whilst on the runway this look appeared more like a dress, we think that it would be equally useful as a kind of raincoat over anyone of your new collection of full dresses and voluminous skirts.

This dress may not be altogether wearable or even successful but it certainly has an interesting quality thanks to that the veiled layering.

Circular patterns were a big hit on the Fendi runway and these looks would be amazing even for a stroll through Central Park (we do seem to cater for you ladies who lunch now don’t we?)

There was just such an atmosphere of fresh easiness at the show, akin to a summer salad (or some other poetically fresh statement)

Now if you can’t see the link between the next look and Van Gogh’s brushstrokes you must be blind, it was definitely part of that mini “hand of the artist trend” we’ve seen at certain shows throughout the season.

Whilst even this LBD looked fresh and updated with the use of synthetic materials and graphic white, hand-painted circular motifs.

So Fendi was definitely a success this season and for the intellectual woman with a need for some quality dresses that are as crisp and cool as those ice cubes in the vodka on the rocks you may be drinking, Fendi is definitely a shop you’ll be visiting soon. Don’t forget that a lot of these looks are quite versatile and will be equally lovely during the evening as well as daytime, and some of those early white dresses will be worn for many seasons to come.